Antioxidants in skin ageing – Future of dermatology
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.22377/ijgp.v5i3.198Abstract
The formation of free radicals is a widely accepted pivotal mechanism leading to skin ageing. Skin ageing is a complex, progressive,time-dependent deterioration caused by intrinsic and extrinsic factors or environmental factors. Skin is equipped with an elaborate antioxidant system that protects it from oxidative damage due to intrinsic and extrinsic factors. However, the natural antioxidant pool can be compromised or overwhelmed by oxidative stress of excess UV exposure, as well as cigarette smoke and other airborne pollutants. Topical antioxidants have been demonstrated to protect the skin from free radical damage and its regular application can actually reverse pervious photodamage. Topical antioxidants are available in over-the-counter skin care products that are aimed at preventing the clinical signs of photoageing. The present review summarises scientific literature regarding efficacy of topicalantioxidants and significance of novel delivery systems for topical antioxidant delivery for combating skin ageing.
Key words: Antioxidants, novel drug delivery systems, skin ageing, topical delivery
Downloads
References
Wlaschek M, Tantcheva-Poor I, Naderi L, Ma W, Schneider LA,
Razi-Wolf Z, et al. Solar UV irradiation and dermal photoaging. J
Photochem Photobiol 2001;63:41-51.
Chui A, Kimball AB. Topical vitamins, minerals, and botanical
ingredients as modulators of environmental and chronological
skin damage. Br J Dermatol 2003;149:681-91.
Dreher F, Maibach H. Protective effects of topical antioxidants in
humans. Curr Probl Dermatol 2001;29:157-64.
Rabe JH, Mamelak AJ, McElgunn PJ, Morison WL, Sauder DN.
Photoaging, mechanisms and repair. J Am Acad Dermatol
;55:1-19.
Holtkötter O, Schlotmann K, Hofheinz H, Olbrisch RR,
Petersohn D. Unveiling the molecular basis of intrinsic skin aging.
Int J Cosmet Sci 2005;27:263-9.
Südel KM, Venzke K, Mielke H, Breitenbach U, Mundt C,
Jaspers S, et al. Novel aspects of intrinsic and extrinsic aging
human skin: Beneficial effects of soy extract. J Photochem
Photobiol 2005;18:581-7.
Elias PM, Ghadially R. The aged epidermal permeability barrier:
Basis for functional abnormalities. Clin Geriatr Med 2002;18:103-20.
Wilhelm KP, Cua AB, Maibach HI. Skin aging. Effect on
transepidermal water loss, stratum corneum hydration, skin surface
pH, and casual sebum content. Arch Dermatol 1991;127:1806-9.
Kurban RS, Bhawan J. Histologic changes in skin associated with
aging. J Dermatol Surg Oncol 1990;16:908-14
Rhie G, Shin MH, Seo JY, Choi WW, Cho KH, Kim KH, et al. Aging
and photoaging dependent changes of enzymic and nonenzymic
antioxidants in the epidermis and dermis of human skin in vivo.
J Invest Dermatol 2001;117:1212-7.
Chung JH, Seo JY, Choi HR, Lee MK, Youn CS, Rhie G, et al.
Modulation of skin collagen metabolism in aged and photoaged
human skin in vivo. J Invest Dermatol 2001;117:1218-24.
Varani J, Dame MK, Rittie L, Fligiel SE, Kang S, Fisher GJ, et al.
Decreased collagen production in chronologically aged skin: Roles
of age-dependent alteration in fibroblast function and defective
mechanical stimulation. Am J Patho 2006;168:1861-8.
Ohnishi Y, Tajima S, Akiyama M, Ishibashi A, Kobayashi R,
Horii I. Expression of elastin-related proteins and matrix
metalloproteinases in actinic elastosis of sun-damaged skin. Arch
Dermatol Res 2000;292:27-31.
Waller JM, Maibach HI. Age and skin structure and function, a
quantitative approach (II): Protein, glycosaminoglycans, water,
and lipid content and structure. Skin Res Technol 2006;12:145-54.
Fleischmajer R, Perlish JS, Bashey RI. Human dermal
glycosaminoglycans and aging. Biochim Biophys Acta 1972;279:265-75.
Gilchrest BA, Blog FB, Szabo G. Effects of aging and chronic
sun exposure on melanocytes in human skin. J Invest Dermatol
;73:141-3.
Kelly RI, Pearse R, Bull RH, Leveque JL, de Rigal J, Mortimer PS.
The effects of aging on the cutaneous microvasculature. J Am Acad
Dermatol 1995;33:749-56.
Gniadecka M, Jemec GB. Quantitative evaluation of chronological
aging and photoaging in vivo: Studies on skin echogenciity and
thickness. Br J Dermatol 1998;139:815-21.
Rijken F, Kiekens RC, van den Worm E, Lee PL, van Weelden H,
Bruijnzeel PL. Pathophysiology of photoaging of human skin:
Focus on neutrophils. Photochem Photobiol Sci 2006;5:184-9.
Rikans LE, Hornbrook KR. Lipid peroxidation, antioxidant
protection and aging. Biochim Biophys Acta 1997;1362:116-27.
Smith JB, Fenske NA. Cutaneous manifestations and consequences
of smoking. J Am Acad Dermatol 1966;34:717-32.
Kadunce DP, Burr R, Gress R, Kanner R, Lyon JL, Zone JJ. Cigarette
smoking: Risk factor for premature facial wrinkling. Ann Intern
Med 1991;114:840-4.
Schmidt JB, Binder M, Demschik G, Bieglmayer C, Reiner A.
Treatment of skin aging with topical estrogens. Int J Dermatol
;35:669-74.
Junqueira V, Barros S, Chan S, Rodrigues L, Giavarotti L, Abud R,
et al. Aging and oxidative stress. Mol Aspects Med 2005;25:5-16.
Podda M, Traber MG, Weber C, Yan LJ, Packer L. UV-irradiation
depletes antioxidants and causes oxidative damage in a model of
human skin. Free Radic Bio Med 1998;24:55-65.
Sander CS, Chang H, Hamm F, Elsner P, Thiele JJ. Role of oxidative
stress and the antioxidant network in cutaneous carcinogenesis.
Int J Dermatol 2004;43:326-35.
Nishigori C, Hattori Y, Toyokuni S. Role of reactive oxygen species
in skin carcinogenesis. Antioxid Redox Signal 2004;6:561-70.
Stone WL, Smith M. Therapeutic uses of antioxidant liposomes.
Mol Biotech 2004;27:217-30.
Shindo Y, Witt E, Packer L. Antioxidant defense mechanisms in
murine epidermis and dermis and their response to ultraviolet
light. J Invest Dermatol 1993;100:260-5.
De Rios G, Chan JT, Black HS, Rudolph AH, Knox JM. Systemic
protection by antioxidants against UVL-induced erythema. J Invest
Dermatol 1978;70:123-5.
Lin JY, Selim MA, Shea CR, Grichnik JM, Omar MM, Monteiro-
Riviere NA, et al. UV photoprotection by combination topical
antioxidants vitamin C and vitamin E. J Am Acad Dermatol
;48:866-74.
Panin G, Strumia R, Ursini F. Topical alpha-tocopherol acetate in
the bulk phase: Eight years of experience in skin treatment. Ann
N Y Acad Sci 2004;1031:443-7.
Wefers H, Sies H. The protection by ascorbate and glutathione
against microsomal lipid peroxidation is dependent on vitamin E.
Eur J Biochem 1988;174:353-7.
Colven RM, Pinnell SR. Topical vitamin C in aging. Clin Derma
;14:227-34.
Lopez-Torres M, Thiele JJ, Shindo Y, Han D, Packer L. Topical
application of alpha-tocopherol modulates the antioxidant
network and diminishes ultraviolet-induced oxidative damage
in murine skin. Br J Derma 1998;138:207-15.
Lever I, Kumar P, Marks R. Topical retinoic acid for treatment of
solar damage. Br J Derma 1990;122:91-8.
Kligman LH, Duo CH, Kligman AM. Topical retinoic acid enhances
the repair of ultraviolet damaged dermal connective tissue.
Connect Tissue Res 1984;12:139-50.
Suh J, Wang H, Liu R, Liu J, Hagen T. (R)-α-lipoic acid reverses
the age-related loss in Glutathione redox status in post-mitotic
tissue: Evidence for increased cysteine requirement for Glutathione
synthesis. Arch Biochem Biophys 2004;423:126-35.
Thiele JJ, Hsieh SN, Ekanayake-Mudiyanselage S. Vitamin E:
Critical review of its current use in cosmetic and clinical
dermatology. Dermatol Surg 2005;31:805-13.
Mayer P, Pittermann W, Wallat S. The effects of vitamin E on the
skin. Cosmet Toil 1993;108:99-109.
Hoppe U, Bergemann J, Diembeck W, Ennen J, Gohla S, Harris I,
et al. Coenzyme Q10, a cutaneous antioxidant and energizer.
Biofactors 1999;9:371-8.
Srinivasan M, Sudheer AR, Pillai KR, Kumar PR, Sudhakaran PR,
Menon VP. Lycopene as a natural protector against gammaradiation
induced DNA damage, lipid peroxidation, and
antioxidant status in primary culture of isolated rat hepatocytes
in vitro. Biochim Biophys Act 2007;1770:659-65.
Vayalil PK, Elmets CA, Katiyar SK. Treatment of green tea
polyphenols in hydrophilic cream prevent UVB-induced oxidation
of lipids and proteins, depletion of antioxidant enzymes and
phosphorylation of MAPK proteins in SKH-1 hairless mouse skin.
Carcinogenesis 2003;24:927-36.
Meeran SM, Katiyar S, Elmets CA, Katiyar SK. Silymarin inhibits
UV radiation-induced immunosuppression through augmentation
of interleukin-12 in mice. Mol Cancer Ther 2006;5:1660-8.
Mantena SK, Katiyar SK. Grape seed proanthocyanidins inhibit
UV-radiation-induced oxidative stress and activation of MAPK
and NF-kappaB signaling in human epidermal keratinocytes. Free
Radic Biol Med 2006;40:1603-14.
Aslam MN, Lansky EP, Varani J. Pomegranate as a cosmeceutical
source: Pomegranate fractions promote proliferation and
procollagen synthesis and inhibit matrix metalloproteinase-1
production in human skin cells. J Ethnopharmacol 2006;103:
-8.
Sime S, Reeve V. Protection from inflammation, immunosuppression,
and carcinogenesis induced by UV radiation in mice by topical
Pycnogenol. Photochem Photobiol 2004;79:193-8.
Souto E, Muller R. Nanoparticulate Drug Delivery Systems. Inform
Healthc 2007;166:213-34.
Samad A, Sultana Y, Aqil M. Liposomal drug delivery systems:
An update review. Curr Drug Deliv 2007;4:297-305.
Moussaoui N, Cansell M, Denizot A. Marinosomes, marine
lipid-based liposomes: Physical characterization and potential
application in cosmetics. Int J Pharm 2002;242:361-5.
Uchegbua I, Vyas S. Non-ionic surfactant based vesicles in drug
delivery. Int J Pharm 1998;172:33-70.
Manconi M, Valenti D, Sinico C, Lai F, Loy G, Fadda AM. Niosomes
as carriers for tretinoin: Influence of vesicular incorporation on
tretinoin photostability. Int J Pharm 2003;260:261-72.
Müller RH, Radtke M, Wissing SA. Solid lipid nanoparticles
(SLN) and nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC) in cosmetic and
dermatological preparations. Adv Drug Deliv Rev 2002;54 Suppl
: S131-55.
Müller RH, Petersen RD, Hommoss A, Pardeike J. Nanostructured
lipid carriers (NLC) in cosmetic dermal products. Adv Drug Deliv
Rev 2007;59:522-30.
Bombardelli E, Curri S, Della R. Complexes between
phospholipids and vegetal derivatives of biological interest.
Fitoterapia 1989;90:1-9.
Laugel C, Baillet A, Youenang P, Marty J, Ferrier D. Oil-water-oil
multiple emulsions for prolonged delivery of hydrocortisone
after topical application, Comparison with simple emulsions. Int
J Pharm 1998;160:109-17.
Siva M, Contente D, Filho P. Ascorbic acid liberation from o/w/o
multiple emulsions. Cosmet Toil 1997;112:85-7.
Sonneville-Aubrun O, Simonnet JT, L’Alloret F. Nanoemulsions:
A new vehicle for skincare products. Adv Colloid Interface Sci
;108-9:145-9.
Cevc G, Blume G. New, highly efficient formulation of diclofenac
for transdermal administration in ultradeformable drug carriers,
Transfersomes. Biochim Biophys Acta 2001;1514:191-205.
Dayan N, Touitou E. Carriers for skin delivery of trihexyphenidyl
HCl: Ethosomes vs liposomes. Biomaterials 2000;21:1879-85.
Garg G, Saraf S, Saraf S. Cubosomes: An overview. Biol Pharm
Bull 2007;30:350-3.
Keck C, Muller RH. Drug nanocrystals of poorly soluble drugs
produced by high pressure homogenisation. Eur J Pharm
Biopharm 2006;62:3-16.